The 19th edition of Lviv Fashion Week showcased a new wave of emerging and established talent from Ukraine, staying true to the event’s ethos to support the next generation of Ukranian designers and talents of the creative sphere. Shows of the main schedule covered the main platform of Lviv Danylo Halytskyi International Airport and important special guests from the Italian fashion scene like Salvatore Piccione, the creative director of Piccione.Piccione and Alessandro Biasi, the creative director of A-LAB Milano showcased their AW18 collections in occasion of this event. In the program of this AW18 season the Ukrainian designers — established and emerging — dominated, and designers like stole the limelight. Here are our top picks from Lviv Fashion Week.
J. PEREKRIOSTOVA ‘S AW18 collection is characterized by laconic silhouettes which are slightly diluted with deconstructive and asymmetric elements. In some images, one can see such references to the style of 80s as round deflated shoulder line, voluminous sleeves and empire waist line. While applying monochromatic colours in one ensemble, the designer focuses on the texture differences of fabrics. Sculptural tailoring and metallized raincoat fabric give a certain futuristic character to the collection. Such integral and practical items for a long journey as double-sided windproof raincoat and jacket, down-padded coat-transformer are the landmark things in the collection. The heroine of the collection is a true connoisseur of the most exquisite things, so the choice of fabric is obvious: high-quality wool, blended texture cotton, French jacquard, silk satin, jersey and raincoat double-face fabric.
KATERYNA KAROL’s inspiration for the AW18 collection, “Where would you wake up today”, was the analysis of space subjects, an understanding that in the time of technology development and the comprehension of space, movement forward, the search for new horizons and the admiration of scientific discoveries is inevitable. The basis of the AW18 collection is an asymmetrical deconstructive cut, simplified silhouettes and fabrics that contribute to forming. Coloristics of the collection is deep space – blue ultramarine, deep purple, black, white, gray. The texture of the tissues complements the activity of the images – cotton, knitwear, eco-leather, lacquer raincoat fabric, cashmere, costume woolen fabrics are used. Volume bombers made from lacquered stiffened fabric, blouses and tops of complex design, shirts and cloaks with a diagonal redistribution and the ability to wear front to back, pencil skirts in different interpretations, asymmetric skirts of complex cut, shorts with overhead details in fold and knit sweatshirts with specially designed for the collection prints, which are followed by different stages of space subdue – newspaper scraps with information about the first flights to the space, the formulas for calculating the black holes of well-known physicists, and Tesla, Ilona Maska, which is displayed in the helmet of the Ukrainian cosmonaut in open space.
KRISTINA PROKOPIV is a young designer, finalist of the UFW All-Ukrainian Contest “A Look into the Future”, a participant of the exhibition Off Fashion Weekend Poland and showcased ”Vibrations” collection for the AW18 season and is about the woman who feels higher vibrations and who forms the same reality around her. She will no longer be able to live in a different way. To make decisions and to live with their true desires, without compromises, becomes very natural for her. It needs other external images. The collection is designed to enhance the vibration that a woman creates in the stream. Sewing patterns with elements of repetitive cuts causes a natural desire to delve into them, to know the origin (source) of unconscious sensations, enchantments and excitements that provoke female nature. Calm, mostly nude shades of matter combine with intense geometric lines and shapes. The geometric lines are distinguished by the restraint and straightforwardness of the silhouettes and, at the same time, adds elements of openness and sharpness.
VOZIANOV refers to the work of the artist and sculptor Alexander Archipenko for AW18. When we look at the clothing items laid out on a flat surface, they remind us rather symbolic figures from the early 20th century avant-garde artists’s arsenal, rather than standard elements of a women’s wardrobe. At the same time, this symbolism doesn’t prevent the transformation of these figures into absolutely wearable clothes for those to whom the beauty of the idea is as important as the beauty of the silhouette. In his previous collection called Suprematism 2.0, Fedir Vozianov proves that the art objects can also be clothing. Alexander Archipenko, (born in 1887, Kyiv, Ukraine — died in 1964, New York, U.S.) was an Ukrainian-born American avant-garde sculptor and artist. One of the founders of cubist sculpture.
LEVYNSKA is a new Ukrainian brand created in 2018. Olena Levynska mainly creates comfortable casual clothes and presented her first menswear collection called Comfort, created for people who value classic lines in clothes combined with maximum convenience. Simple color solutions of white, grey and black emphasize on classical style. The use of stockinet, knitted garments and sports shoes give this collection really personal style. Simple suit and coat fabrics were used as well as stockinet and capron which allow to create looks at reasonable prices. Knitted jackets are among the designer Olena Levynska’s favourites. The peculiarity of her collection is the possibility to feel cozy anywhere either in your office or walking outside at weekend. This idea is supported by the Altra Running UA Company which provided the shoes. Altra is the world famous producer of casual and sports shoes.
DIYA’s MarchSnow AW18 collection is an exquisite, practical laconicism that will well emphasize the vibrant individuality and impeccable taste of each woman. She materialized the inspiration in incredibly gentle, weightless tissues, to delicately smoothen the soft curves of the perfect female body. Cotton, organza and viscose have become the main tool for realizing the most daring sketches.
ZAHARA’s AW18 collection is about the reliefs of the earth, the generative land, and combines the variety of processing depending of the season. These are numerous folds like a furrow on a plowed field, it is a trace of sun and wind, it’s life. Natural dyes from peanut hide and cuttlefish ink were used in this collection. Natural fabrics: flax, cotton, hemp.